Elizabethan Clothing

Elizabeth Tudor, was born September 7, 1533. She would have to wait 25 years and two siblings before would acsend to the throne of England. In November 17 1558, Elizabeth became to a bankrupted country.

So before 1558? Any clothing is not considered "Elizabethan", the styles changed a little during King Edward and Queen Mary, her siblings from her Father's reign. So people who create this era are now calling the time previous to Elizabeth from King Henry to Queen Mary's reign "Henrician" clothing period.

I guess I need to back track? We need to visit 'Henrican' clothing before we get into what specifically changed for Elizabeth.

Above shows the progression through 1500 to 1550's England. I am only working with England in this venue, I will not show you other countries in this section. I am showing King Henry VII wife Elizabeth who helped calm the country from the Wars of the Roses (Lancaster vs York) Elizabeth York, was actually more royal than her husband. She is wearing what is termed as the 'Transistional Gown', allowing for ease of movement and a departue from the 1400's voluminous gowns, such as the Burgundian.

England has many influences as this time, Catherine of Aragon who was a strawberry blonde, and light eyed not like she has been portrayed as a more swarthy woman. She brought Spanish influence to the clothing of England, she adopted the Gable Hood.

Fibers were not man made but natural to include

Wool ~ Most popular fabric, worn by every class and woven into all types of fabric. From twill to broadcloth to fine veil work to velvet. It was dyed and cross dyed in many colors, rich deep colors. It was a staple for England as an export.

Silk~ By the 1450’s silk weaving was established in the Mediterranean figured silks, velvets and weaved with precious metals like silver and gold,

Linen~ From what we have currently was used primarily as under clothing and lining during summer or warmer weather.

Hemp~ Used for the lower classes.

Fur~ Again as a lining for winter or colder climates, as time went on it became more of a fashion statement.

Cotton~ Egyptian very long strands hard to work with, and very valuable. It was said that Queen Elizabeth had 1 Smock made with cotton and she never used it due to it’s costliness

Fabrics

So how the fibers are weaved into Fabric or Material, all or any of the above could become the Fabrics. Since Queen Elizabeth I, inherited a bankrupt country with a lot of men who were injured during the skirmishes and wars and scourges of religious nature. England did have loads of wool for production. By Elizabeth's time~ there was taxes against importing of fibers, and everyone was encouraged to work with woolens.

Plain Weave~ Plain weave is a basic style of weaves, which have the weft and warp threads intertwined in an alternate way to produce a checkerboard effect.

Twill~ has more warps than the wefts floating on the face of the fabric is called warp faced and those with wefts predominating is known as weft faced.

Satin~ the interlacing of the threads are arranged in such a way that the face of the cloth is covered with the warp yarn or filling yarn and no twill line is distinguishable, which means it has a smooth texture to the fabric.

Damask~ is a woven fabric which is self patterned.

Brocade~ Typically has a cloth that is embroidered with a Precious Metal thread to add an additional design to the cloth, if you picked out the metallic thread you would still have a good piece of cloth.

Velvet~ has cut loops from warp pile, which makes the pile stand away from the cloth.